How a Skincare Product Is Really Made: Four Reformulations and the Final Products

How a Skincare Product Is Really Made: Four Reformulations and the Final Products

Over the past year, we reformulated our skincare products four times, to reflect real customer feedback and get closer to the real problems people face with their skin.

So last year, we spent many days standing at beauty trade shows, pop-ups, and local markets in London, talking directly with customers, watching how they touch, smell, and use our products, and listening to what their skin actually struggles with.

After a year of reformulating, testing, and listening, we’ve finally finalised our formula.

This is Version 4. The final one. And this article is about the process behind it.

 

[Version 1] Ocean & Earth Vol. 1 - Kelp & Yam (May 2025)

Sea kelp & wild yam serum and cream

Our very first formulas were reformulated for the UK market.

At the time, we were exploring unique natural actives from Korea. Korean sea kelp and wild yam are both traditional medicinal ingredients and excellent for the skin.

The formulas were gentle, hydrating, and very nourishing. The natural scent of wild yam was beautiful too.

But very quickly, two things became clear.

Most people we met in the UK were not familiar with wild yam (it’s basically a “super-powered” version of potatoes). Sea kelp was slightly more recognisable, but still not a well-known ingredient. It was difficult to communicate the efficacy of two unfamiliar ingredients.

We learned that even if something works fantastically, people hesitate to trust and try what they don’t understand.

More importantly, this version still didn’t express what we wanted to solve. It focused on deep hydration and firming, but it wasn’t yet addressing a specific, meaningful skin problem.

So we went back to the lab.

 

[Version 2] BLUEKKIT KELP C skincare kit (June 2025)

2025)

Sea kelp & vitamin C serum, cream & 5% melting powder

We really wanted to build something specifically for the UK market. So instead of super power potatoes (wild yam), we added a newly developed stabilised vitamin C.

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful and well-known skincare ingredients, but also one of the most unstable. It oxidises quickly, changes colour easily, and loses its efficacy fast. And in high concentrations, vitamin C can seriously irritate sensitive skin.

So instead of formulating vitamin C in a conventional liquid way, we made it into an encapsulated, ultra-fine powder.

In powder form, vitamin C stays stable, protected from heat, light, and air. And the moment it touches damp skin, it melts like butter, activating fresh vitamin C on contact.

This became our turning point.

Because we discovered that sea kelp and vitamin C together work especially well on skin affected by hard water (dryness, tightness, sensitivity, redness, and premature signs of ageing).

For the first time, we could clearly define our purpose: a specialised skincare solution designed for people living in hard-water areas.

We presented this version at a beauty trade show in June 2025 at ExCeL London.

Over two days, people kept visiting our tiny booth non-stop. We met over 100 visitors and gave out trial kits.

The feedback was great. Some people even messaged us afterwards saying they absolutely loved the kits.

But some felt the vitamin C scent was a little too medical. Others said the melting powder felt amazing, but they weren’t sure if 5% was strong enough.

So again, we went back to the lab.

 

[Version 3] BLUEKKIT KELP C skincare kit (September 2025)

Sea kelp & vitamin C serum, cream & 5% / 30% vitamin C powders

To remove the vitamin C smell, we switched to premium British-sourced vitamin C used in high-quality supplements. It cost more, but the medical scent disappeared and the texture improved significantly.

We also developed a high-strength 30% pure vitamin C powder, designed for targeted concerns such as hyperpigmentation, blemish marks, and visible brightening.

To stabilise such a high concentration, we applied our proprietary stabilisation technology to improve both stability and absorption. It slows oxidation by over 2×, helps vitamin C remain potent for longer, and makes high-dose formulas gentler on the skin. (This technology is currently patent-pending.)

Then we changed something really fundamental.

Instead of using inactive, conventional water (which makes up 70–80% of most skincare products), we rebuilt the entire base of our serum and cream with sea kelp functional water.

Instead of using inactive, conventional water (which makes up 70–80% of most skincare products), we rebuilt the entire base of our serum and cream with sea kelp functional water.

This goes beyond using water as an inert carrier or simply adding hydration. It is designed to chemically target and help reduce the mineral barrier left on the skin surface by hard water.

This time, we produced fewer trial kits than before. The response was stronger than we expected.

We received messages from dozens of people, including representatives from Habia (The Hair and Beauty Industry Authority), supermodels, spa/clinic owners, and even startup founders.

We also collected real feedback from UK users. Overall, the products were rated 4.8/5.0 by users in their 20s to 50s across the UK.

At that point, we felt it was time to finalise our formulation towards launch.

 

[Version 4] BLUEKKIT KELP C Active Collection (December 2025)

Sea kelp & vitamin C serum, cream & 5% / 30% vitamin C powders with NMN

After collecting feedback from users, we added one last touch to support texture, recovery, and overall skin feel.

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN).

NMN is an advanced skincare ingredient that helps support the skin’s natural energy and repair processes, improving resilience, texture, and overall radiance.

This completed what we had been building toward all along.

The final products now work on three levels:

  • Defending skin from environmental and water stress
  • Correcting visible concerns like dullness, dehydration, and uneven tone
  • Supporting the skin’s own energy and recovery processes

What's Next?

We are now moving full speed towards our official launch this coming spring.

Pre-orders are now open, with early explorers able to save up to £42 (30% off all skincare products). Early explorers will receive the final trial kit first, so they can experience the final formula ahead of the official launch.

If you’ve been following this article until here, thank you so much.

0 comments

Leave a comment

Please note, comments must be approved before they are published